The Complete Guide to Clipping Your Horse
Animal Care Team
Clipping season rolls around every fall, and if you've ever stood in the barn aisle wondering whether your horse actually needs a clip—or what kind of clip to give them—you're not alone. There's a lot to consider: your horse's workload, how much they sweat, whether they live inside or outside, and what kind of winter coat they're growing. This guide breaks down everything you need to know.
Horses grow winter coats for a reason—to stay warm. So why would you shave that off?
Temperature regulation during work. A horse in moderate to heavy work with a full winter coat overheats fast. They sweat heavily, take forever to cool down, and you're left walking them for an hour in the cold while they're still damp. A clipped horse cools faster, dries quicker, and is more comfortable during exercise.
Preventing illness. Horses that stay wet too long are more prone to chills and skin issues. Clipping reduces sweat and moisture, which means they stay drier for longer and are less likely to develop skin problems like rain rot.
Easier grooming and care. A clipped horse is easier to groom, easier to monitor for cuts or skin conditions, and frankly, easier to keep clean.
Show schedules. If you're competing through winter, clipping gives a polished, professional look.
That said, not every horse needs clipping. Light work horses, easy keepers, and those living out full-time might be better off with their natural insulation. If your horse barely breaks a sweat during rides, clipping might create more problems than it solves since you'll need to blanket more heavily.
When to Clip
Timing matters. Clip too early and the coat grows back too thick. Clip too late and you've already dealt with weeks of a sweaty horse that’s challenging to cool out and groom properly.
First clip: Late October to early November. Most horses have grown enough winter coat by late October that clipping makes sense. This timing works well for horses in regular work.
Second clip: December to January. Depending on how fast your horse's coat grows back and how heavy their winter coat is, a second clip might be necessary midwinter.
Final clip: Late January to February. Some horses need a touch-up clip in late winter, especially if they're still in work. Be cautious about clipping too late—you don't want to interfere with the summer coat coming in.
Don't clip if:
● Your horse is sick or recovering from illness.
● Temperatures are already consistently below freezing, and your horse lives outdoors without shelter.
● Your horse has skin conditions or open wounds in areas you'd be clipping.
Horses grow winter coats in response to changes in daylight, not to temperature. Once the days start getting shorter in late summer, coat growth kicks in. Some people use stall lights to delay winter coat growth, but that's a whole separate management strategy.
Types of Clips
There's no one-size-fits-all clip. The right choice depends on workload, living situation, and how much your horse sweats.
Trace Clip
Removes hair from the underside of the neck, chest, and belly—the areas that sweat most during work. Leaves the legs and back covered for warmth.
Best for: Light to moderate work, horses living out, those who don't sweat heavily.
Blanketing: Minimal. A lightweight or medium blanket usually does the job.
Irish Clip
Similar to a trace clip, but with a bit more taken off. It usually extends higher up the neck and removes more from the belly and flanks.
Best for: Moderate work, horses that sweat more than a trace clip can handle, but don't need a full body clip.
Blanketing: Light to medium, depending on weather.
Blanket Clip
Removes hair from the neck, chest, belly, and flanks but leaves the back and hindquarters covered—like the area a blanket would cover, hence the name. Legs are usually left unclipped.
Best for: Moderate to heavy work, horses stabled at night, those who sweat heavily but still need some natural insulation.
Blanketing: Medium weight, with adjustments for temperature.
Hunter Clip
Takes off almost everything except the legs and a saddle patch on the back. The saddle patch prevents chafing and provides a little extra warmth where the saddle sits.
Best for: Heavy work, horses in consistent training, hunters and eventers.
Blanketing: Medium to heavyweight, plus coolers and a quarter sheet for warming up during work.
Full Clip (or Show Clip)
Everything comes off—neck, body, legs, the whole deal.
Best for: Horses in very heavy work, those stabled full-time, or horses being shown where a slick coat is expected.
Blanketing: Heavyweight, with layering as needed. These horses need serious blanket management since they have zero natural insulation.
Chaser Clip
Leaves a triangular or inverted V-shaped patch of hair on the hindquarters. Developed for steeplechasers who needed cooling on the front end but protection for the hind end during long gallops in bad weather.
Best for: Horses doing heavy work outside in cold, wet conditions—eventers, hunter/jumpers, some dressage horses.
Blanketing: Medium to heavy, depending on climate.
Bib Clip
Just removes hair from the lower neck and chest in a bib shape.
Best for: Horses in very light work who overheat slightly but don't need a full trace clip. Also good for older horses or those coming back from injury.
Blanketing: Usually none, or just a lightweight sheet.
How to Clip
Clipping isn't complicated, but it does require patience, decent equipment, and a willing horse. If you've never clipped before, start small—a bib or trace clip is way more forgiving than diving straight into a full body clip.
What You Need
Clippers. Body clippers, not the small trimmers you use for bridle paths. Brands like Andis, Oster, Lister, and Heiniger are solid choices. Cordless clippers are convenient but can lose power partway through; corded clippers are reliable, but you're tethered to an outlet.
Sharp blades. Dull blades pull hair, overheat, and make clipping miserable for both of you. Keep a second set on hand so you can swap them out if needed.
Clipper oil and coolant. Blades get hot. Oil them regularly during clipping and use a coolant spray to keep them from overheating.
Coat Polish. Applying a nourishing coat polish like original ShowSheen Hair Polish & Detangler will help clipper blades slide through the coat to stay cooler, sharper, and reduce clipper marks.
Extension cord. If you're using corded clippers, get a heavy-duty outdoor extension cord. A cheap one will cause the clippers to lose power.
Chalk or livestock marker. For mapping out clip lines, especially if you're doing something like a blanket or hunter clip, where symmetry matters.
Brushes and towels. You'll need to brush your horse thoroughly before clipping and wipe them down after.
Help. Seriously. Having someone hold your horse or help with tricky spots makes everything easier.
Prep Your Horse
Clean and dry. Your horse needs to be completely clean and dry before clipping. Dirt and grease dull blades fast. Give them a good grooming or even a bath if the weather allows, then make sure they're bone dry.
Detangle manes and tails. You don't want long hairs getting caught in the clippers.
Secure them safely. Crossties work for most horses, but if yours is nervous about clippers, you might need someone to hold them. Some horses do better with a bit of sedation from the vet—there's no shame in that if it keeps everyone safe.
Watch “How to Prepare for Clipping,” with Team Absorbine Rider Julie Goodnight here.
Clipping Technique
Start with a plan. Know what clip you're doing and mark it out with chalk if necessary. Symmetry is tough to eyeball, especially for something like a blanket clip.
Clip against the direction of hair growth. This gives you a smooth, even finish. Going with the hair won't cut it short enough.
Use long, smooth strokes. Overlapping slightly with each pass keeps things even. Short, choppy strokes leave lines.
Keep blades flat against the skin. Angling the clippers can cause uneven patches or, worse, nick the skin.
Go slow around bony or sensitive areas. Elbows, hips, flanks, and the head require more care. The skin is thinner and bonier there, and most horses are more ticklish.
Take breaks. Check your blades regularly. If they're getting hot, stop and let them cool or swap them out. Overheated blades are uncomfortable for the horse and won't cut well.
Work in sections. Don't try to do the whole horse in one go if you're new to this. Do one side, take a break, then do the other.
Tricky Spots
Head and ears. Most horses hate having their heads clipped. Small, quiet trimmers work better here than big body clippers. Go slow, and if your horse really won't tolerate it, just leave the head unclipped—it's not worth the fight.
Elbows and flanks. These areas are ticklish and wrinkly. Have someone hold a front leg forward to stretch the elbow skin, and work carefully around the flank.
Between the front legs. Lots of loose skin here. Pull the leg forward and clip carefully.
After Clipping
Brush off loose hair. Use a soft brush or towel to get rid of all the little clipped hairs stuck to your horse's skin. Some people do a quick rinse if it's warm enough.
Blanket appropriately. A clipped horse loses their insulation. They'll need blankets to compensate, and how much depends on the clip, the weather, and whether they're stalled or turned out.
Monitor for skin irritation. Some horses get clipper rash, especially if the blades were dull or dirty. Keep an eye out for bumps or irritation and treat with a soothing conditioner, like Silver Honey Rapid Skin Relief Conditioner. It can be used as a leave-in treatment to help support skin recovery and maintain coat health.
Adjust their feed. Horses use energy to stay warm. A heavily clipped horse in cold weather might need extra hay to maintain weight.
Blanketing After Clipping
Once you clip, you've taken away your horse's natural temperature regulation. Now, you are responsible for keeping them comfortable.
General guidelines:
● Trace or bib clip: Light sheet or no blanket, depending on weather
● Blanket or hunter clip: Medium weight, adjusting for temperature and wind
● Full clip: Heavyweight blanket, potentially with a neck cover, plus layering as needed
Pay attention to your individual horse. Some run hot, some run cold. Check them regularly—if they're shivering, add a layer. If they're sweating under their blanket, lighten up.
Turnout blankets need to be waterproof if your horse lives out. Stable blankets don't, but they also don't hold up to the wear and tear of outdoor life.
Clipper Care
Taking care of your clippers makes them last and perform better.
During clipping:
● Oil the blades every 10-15 minutes.
● Use a coolant spray when they get warm.
● Brush hair out of the blades regularly.
After clipping:
● Remove and clean the blades.
● Oil them before storing.
● Store clippers in a dry place.
● Have blades professionally sharpened as needed.
Dull blades are the enemy. They pull, they overheat, they make clipping take twice as long. Get them sharpened or replace them when they stop cutting cleanly.
Common Mistakes
Clipping a dirty horse. This destroys your blades. Always start with a clean, dry coat.
Using dull blades. See above. Just don't.
Rushing. Clipping takes time. Rushing leads to uneven lines, missed spots, and a frustrated horse.
Not blanketing enough. A clipped horse in freezing weather without adequate blanketing is miserable. Don't clip if you're not prepared to manage their warmth.
Ignoring your horse's comfort. If they're getting anxious or uncomfortable, take a break. Forcing it makes future clipping sessions worse.
Final Thoughts
Clipping isn't mandatory, but for horses in regular work during winter, it makes life easier for everyone. The key is matching the clip to your horse's workload and lifestyle, prepping properly, and taking your time. Your first clip won't be perfect—that's fine. You'll get better with practice.
And if you're really not confident? Hire a professional. There's no shame in paying someone who clips horses every day to do it right.
References and Further Reading:
● British Horse Society guidelines on clipping and horse care
● Practical Horseman clipping tutorials and seasonal horse care articles
● Equine veterinary resources on thermoregulation and winter management